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Would you rather have a Scotch steak frites than a burger-in-a-bun?

October 10, 2023

Would you rather have a rump steak than a burger with your beer? An interesting new venture by premium Scottish beer brand Innis & Gunn hopes to find out.

For a very reasonable £19.95 customers at the Innis & Gunn Brewery Tap Room in Glasgow’s West Nile Street can have a huge plate of Steak Frites, with a starter and a sampler glass of The Original, for only £19.95. And you can order free seconds of steak and chips if you have room. The offer begins this week on Wednesdays only, and it remains to be seen if it takes off.: the menu also offers KFC (Korean spiced Fried Cauliflower), Vegan Pie, bear-glazed chicken wings, hot dogs and, yes, burgers.

I get to sample the new Steak Frites menu ahead of its launch. The “chef’s snack” starter is beef dripping onions with Poutine on sourdough with a glass of The Original - a deliciously sweet-and-sour mouthful that prep the tastebuds for what is to follow. You get to choose your steak pink or well done and my 35-day dry-aged rump steak (raised in the Scottish Borders by Lauder-based supplier Shaws Fine Meats) is conveniently served cut into slices and placed over a generous helping of garlic-butter fries. I opt to have the creamy, tasty house pepper sauce, made with The Original, on the side so I can savour the excellent flavour of the beef. My partner chooses his pink and had his sauce poured over. My citrus Gunpowder IPA cuts through with a hint of acidity; his Ossian IPA - a Scottish version of Guinness - is a stout match for the beef. We were offered seconds, but … sadly didn’t have the room.

Master brewer Dougal Gunn Sharp (left) tells me: “Every tap room does good food but this is a brand built on originality and the Steak Frites offer is a complete shake-up. We’re not trying to be fine-dining but we reckon there’s a space in the market for this. It’s nice to do something that’s very different. The food scene at this level has been the same for quite a while and we hope customers will recognise steak frites is a great match for our range of premium beers.”

My own view is that Steak Frites is a touch more sophisticated than a fussy, over-dressed and visually overloaded burger in a bun. In fact, I’m going to take a pint - I mean, a punt - and predict that we’re about to reach peak burger …

* Steak Frites is available at the Innis & Gunn Brewery Tap Room on Wednesdays and is open for bookings and walk-ins: www.innisandgunn.com/

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